Newport This Week

Tomatoes the Jewel of Summer Harvest



 

 

The surreal, almost sci-fi quality of 2020 has had a funny effect on the passage of time. For months, it seemed to stand still, and then, like whiplash, it was the beginning of summer’s end. All the while, the gardens grew, unaffected by our unfamiliar new normal.

Emerald hued asparagus, spinach and bunches of bright magenta radishes popped up in May. In June, beets, broccoli, cabbage and carrots appeared. July brought the peas, peppers, green beans and zucchini. And August presented the top three most consumed vegetables/produce in the United States with potatoes, tomatoes and corn.

Although you have well into October for freshly dug potatoes in this part of the country, the last of the local corn will be harvested at the end of the month, with tomatoes not far behind in September. Don’t let them slip by without indulging.

This summer, we’ve been grilling our corn, shucked and placed directly on the grates (no oil, no butter) for about eight to 10 minutes until all sides show char marks and the corn is tender but retains its crunch. Cut the corn off the cob by putting it flat on your cutting board, rolling and cutting around the perimeter to avoid flying kernels.

 

 

Throw it into a couscous salad, preparing the grain per the box instructions, tossing with a couple tablespoons of good olive oil, then cooling completely before adding the corn and veggies of your choice. I like the color and texture combo of minced jalapenos, halved cherry tomatoes and black beans. Add your favorite vinaigrette. Toss the corn into a green salad, or into a store bought or homemade salsa or guacamole. Or go all-American and eat your ears straight off the cob. The smoky caramelization and super sweet, tender-crunchy kernels proffer a perfect bite, no butter required.

For my palate, a locally grown tomato is a bite of juicy bliss. A half-inch thick slice of an heirloom or a beefsteak sprinkled with some flaked salt is a revelation in and of itself, a mouth-watering balance of sweetness and acidity. Year-round, I have cubes of freshly made, frozen tomato sauce ready to throw into my winter stews for extra umami. Some eat them like apples. Why not? But it’s the multifaceted quality of the tomato that makes it tops in my book.

I make a summer stew with chopped onions and garlic (both grown here through October), sautéed in olive oil with salt until softened. I add cubed zucchini (through September), calamata olives and drained, rinsed chickpeas, cooking a few minutes more, then in go the peeled, seeded and chopped fresh tomatoes, a good splash of white wine, a squirt of lemon juice, a pinch of red pepper flakes for a little heat, pepper, and more salt (don’t skimp on it as it really brings out the flavor).

Cook uncovered for 10 minutes. Top and serve with grated parmesan and torn basil or parsley and a hunk of good bread. No chickpeas? Substitute any beans you like or leave them out and pour the mixture over pasta.

The recipe that never fails to win high praise in August and September is a tomato “jam” recipe that I created one late summer night a few years back. The stuff is like gold with a tiny drizzle of local honey added that brings it all together. It works beautifully for crostini (top toasts with a slather of soft goat cheese, a spoonful of tomato jam, a couple of capers and some fresh dill), as the topper for grilled fish or chicken, or tossed with steamed green beans. The recipe follows.

As we roll into autumn, a tip of our caps is in order for the area farmers. These essential service people and their harvests play a critical role in our food system, and while summer’s harvest is nearly done, the farmers’ work is not. The upcoming season brings the promise of leeks, Brussels sprouts, pumpkins, turnips and more.

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